Ideas for Cat

[C_A_L]

The tension rod could have lines and numbers etched on the side, similar to a ruler. This would make it so you can adjust the glans tension to a specific pre-numbered setting.

"I started out at a glans pressure setting of 5, and am now at an 8"

The tension rod and pusher could be threaded, making it easier to take apart. They would just unscrew from each other. The zip ties need to be cut off and replaced with the current design. My idea is similar to how a nut and bolt fit together.

The Main, bell shaped part of the device could have etching on it, helping to prevent slippage.

[ctrclckws]

Lines and numbers - scratch your own.

Threaded end between tension rod and pusher - DTR.

The CAT II I have does have a ridge on it to aid the grip function.

Here is the way I use the CAT II

Replace standard pusher with deep pusher.
Removed fixed collet and replaced with springs
I hang various weights on it during the day or use elastic tension straps from TLC, depending on my activities for the next few hours.

[admin]

Hi,
Tom who makes the CAT has an account here. I don't know if he checks in often but I'm sure if you sent him a PM the system would e-mail him.

Cheers,
-Ron

[C_A_L]

Lines and numbers - scratch your own.

I don't have the equipment to do that, and i'm not sure what I would have to buy.

Threaded end between tension rod and pusher - DTR.

I don't really want to get a DRT. This feature would make the CAT pushers and rods easier to take apart and reassemble

The CAT II I have does have a ridge on it to aid the grip function.

True. But added grooves on the bell portion would help to grip better. But then again I found it grips okay as long as the skin is positioned correctly under the outer cone.

Here is the way I use the CAT II

Replace standard pusher with deep pusher.
Removed fixed collet and replaced with springs
I hang various weights on it during the day or use elastic tension straps from TLC, depending on my activities for the next few hours.

The base rings also help to focus tension where it's needed and prevents unwanted 'skin migration' from the pubic and scrotal areas.

[ctrclckws]

Perhaps a knife, a ruler, a clamp and a steady hand to scratch measurements.

for additional ridges, Tom of CAT would have to have the injection mold remade or at least worked on. Having been a buyer for such things, I know that's not cheap. and who knows what stock he may still have.

If you have access to lathe, you might be able to add your own ridges.

good luck and Keep on tugging

[C_A_L]

Perhaps a knife, a ruler, a clamp and a steady hand to scratch measurements.

for additional ridges, Tom of CAT would have to have the injection mold remade or at least worked on. Having been a buyer for such things, I know that's not cheap. and who knows what stock he may still have.

If you have access to lathe, you might be able to add your own ridges.

good luck and Keep on tugging

That's not a bad idea. But the lines and numbers would be hard to read, unless I found some way to fill the lines and numbers with an ink that won't wash off.

[ctrclckws]

What kind of ink do the PVC pipe manufactures use? It seems to last.

Is there something in Home Depot, Lowes, or other hardware store that is used to mark PVC pipe?

I actually used a small drill bit to cut a hole in the tension rod by hand. You could do that at measured increments, and it would be easy to see.

[C_A_L]

What kind of ink do the PVC pipe manufactures use? It seems to last.

Is there something in Home Depot, Lowes, or other hardware store that is used to mark PVC pipe?

I actually used a small drill bit to cut a hole in the tension rod by hand. You could do that at measured increments, and it would be easy to see.

They make these latex sleeves for injured fingers. they look like midget condoms. I've started covering my pusher with these. It's easier to clean now.

[craghopper]

I used a Marker pen - the type used for writing on DVDS/CDS to mark a scale on my CAT. To make it easy to read I used a "DOT System". At centimetre intervals I marked dots. Starting nearest to the pusher I put one dot... then a cm higher up.... two dots - *, **, ***, **** etc around the circumference. It could easily have been in inches or whatever scale you deem appropriate. Very easy to gauge 1 1/2, etc and easy to read at a glance.
:)